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India Trade / Gems & Jewellery

India Gems & Jewellery Trade

India's gems and jewellery sector sits in a peculiar position — the country is the world's largest diamond cutting and polishing centre (processing 90% of all rough diamonds globally) and a major gold jewellery exporter, yet the sector is almost entirely import-dependent for its raw materials. This creates a processing-and-re-export business model that is highly sensitive to global commodity prices.

Rough diamonds are imported primarily from Russia (Alrosa), Botswana (De Beers), and other African countries. They are cut and polished in Surat — which alone processes an estimated 90% of the world's gem-quality diamonds — and then exported, predominantly to the USA, Hong Kong, Belgium, and the UAE.

Gold imports are the second massive input. India is the world's second-largest gold consumer (after China), driven by wedding demand and investment buying. The government imposes import duties on gold to manage the current account, but gold smuggling rises when duties are too high — a persistent policy challenge.

ExportsFY 2025-26
$11.4B
61.9% YoY
ImportsFY 2025-26
$28.2B
68.3% YoY
Trade DeficitFY 2025-26
$16.8B
ANNUAL TREND — GEMS & JEWELLERY (USD BN)
■ Exports■ Imports
39.321-2238.122-2332.923-2430.024-2525-26
YearExportsYoYImportsYoYBalance
FY 2025-26$11.4B-61.9%$28.2B-68.3%$16.8B
FY 2024-25$30.0B-8.8%$89.0B+13.4%$59.0B
FY 2023-24$32.9B-13.8%$78.5B+6.2%$45.6B
FY 2022-23$38.1B-2.9%$73.9B-9.5%$35.8B
FY 2021-22$39.3B+50.1%$81.7B+47.9%$42.4B
Top Export Commodities
HS 71Natural or cultured pearls,precious or semipreciou
30.0B6.8% of total exports-8.8% YoY
Top Import Commodities
HS 71Natural or cultured pearls,precious or semipreciou
89.0B12.3% of total imports+13.4% YoY
KEY POINTS
  • Surat processes ~90% of the world's gem-quality diamonds
  • USA, Hong Kong, UAE, Belgium are top export markets
  • Lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) are disrupting the mined diamond segment globally
  • Gold imports add ~$40-50B to India's import bill annually
  • Import duties on gold create smuggling incentives when too high
INVESTOR ANGLE

Listed exposure includes Titan Company (jewellery retail), PC Jeweller, Rajesh Exports (gold refining/jewellery), and Kalyan Jewellers. The sector is exposed to gold price volatility, USD/INR, and US consumer demand. Lab-grown diamonds are an existential threat to the natural diamond cutting trade in Surat — a structural headwind for unorganised players.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Why does India import rough diamonds to export cut ones?
India has developed an unparalleled ecosystem for diamond cutting and polishing in Surat — with millions of skilled artisans, specialised machinery, and a complete supply chain. No other country matches India's cost and scale in this activity, making it economically rational to import roughs and export finished gems at a value-added margin.
What is India's gold import policy?
India applies import duties on gold (currently 15% in 2024, reduced from 15% briefly in the Union Budget) to manage the current account deficit. When duties are high, gold smuggling increases. The RBI and government periodically adjust duties to balance domestic demand management with CAD control.
How are lab-grown diamonds affecting India's gem exports?
Lab-grown diamonds (LGDs), which are chemically identical to mined diamonds but cost 70-80% less, are rapidly gaining share in the US market. India is also a major LGD producer, but traditional rough diamond cutting in Surat faces existential pressure as consumers shift to LGDs. India's LGD exports are growing but haven't yet offset the natural diamond slowdown.
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